Waterbed Liner
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Waterbed Liner
Waterbeds Go Tubular
Waterbeds Go Tubular
Early waterbeds were designed with a one-piece bladder-type mattress. This would result in the water sloshing back and forth and not everyone was wild about the feeling. Manufacturers responded with new designs and the open, bladder-type of waterbed mattress was replaced with a mattress featuring internal baffles that would mute the wave action of previous designs. Traditional waterbed mattresses needed a heating element to keep the water temperature as high or higher, than your normal body temperature.
The flapper-type designs were improved yet again with other baffled designs that incorporated foam fiber material inside the mattress that would stabilize the mattress and keep the bed from excessively rocking back and forth. These designs remained a standard for many years but new developments in waterbeds were on the horizon and gained immediate consumer acceptance.
In the late nineteen seventies, a new type of waterbed system hit the scene and would change the waterbed market yet again. The new design featured a soft-sided mattress that, on the outside, had the look and feel of a traditional mattress and did not require a wooded frame. The real difference could be found on the inside. The old bladder-type waterbed mattress was replaced with a series of water-filled tubes or cylinders that run down the long axis of the bed.
The tubes could be filled to achieve the desired firmness and were encased in an upholstered frame. Early tube-type mattresses lacked a leak protection in the form of a vinyl liner but liners became available in later designs and could be added as an after-market item. The size of these innovative mattresses is very close to the industry standard for conventional mattresses and this eliminated the need to buy traditional waterbed sheets.
Since the design incorporates a thick layer of foam padding and traditional mattress ticking the need for an electric heater was eliminated. The tubular waterbed can take up less space than a traditional waterbed since the tube-type mattress does not require a bulky wooden frame. Tubular waterbeds can be placed on variety of more traditional bed frame styles.
Less Weight
Tubular waterbeds are generally lighter than their traditional cousins since the weight of a bulky wooded frame and pedestal has been eliminated. Weight has always been a factor with waterbeds and there was a fear, largely based on a misperception that waterbeds were too heavy for the average residential floor. The fact is that the average residential refrigerator can weigh more per foot than the average waterbed and there has never been a reported case of refrigerators spontaneously falling through the floor nor have any waterbeds.
As a rule, residential floors that are built to standard building codes can safely support at least forty pounds per square foot. Imagine six or seven adults standing shoulder to shoulder forming a square. Now imagine those six or seven adults spontaneously falling through the floor. That would be a hard image to conjure up since it would not happen. The average waterbed weights slightly less than the combined weight of those six adults and the weight load is more evenly distributed.
Other Important Advantages
Moving a tubular waterbed has some advantages over bladder-type beds. The individual tubes are often light enough to carry out of the house or placed in a bathtub and allowed to drain. This eliminates the need for siphons and pumps that are needed to drain bladder mattresses. The tubes can be rolled up and safely packed away. There is no bulky framing to breakdown and reassemble. Tubular or cylinder-type waterbeds have an additional advantage by allowing you to use the entire mattress from edge to edge.
About the Author
Mitch Endick is a short article writer for the popular waterbed sleep site: http://www.WaterbedAuthority.com. He provides informative advice on waterbeds, waterbed mattresses, waterbed accessories and good sleep habits.
Do I place a waterbed heater under the liner, or between mattress and liner?
Also, where do I put temperature probe? It is extremely sharp and metal, and I'm worried I will puncture the waterbed! Please help, fast!
(Note: Spellcheck was taking too long, so in the interest of getting this info to you, ignore any errors)
I have set several waterbeds and have become rather adept at it. Here are some tips for a successful set up.
After setting the deck in place, lay the heater in the center with the wires running out through one of the holes in the corner. The temperature probe comes from the control back through the hole and can be attached to the head rail, or left to lay on top of the deck, but away from the heater. DO NOT PLUG THE HEATER IN, OR TURN IT ON!!
Set or stretch the lliner into the frame and smooth any wrinkles out
Place the unfolded mattress into the liner and stretch to all four corners.
TIP: pump the mattress partially full of air using a vacuum cleaner with the hose installed on the exhaust port, or with a hand held hair dryer on a low heat setting. This will allow you to properly position the mattress in the frame. Now put the hose back on the intake port (suction) and draw the air out of the mattress, being careful not to shift the position of the mattress.
After drawing off the air, the mattress will collapse back into the frame area and will be ready to be filled. ]
Attach your garden hose to an appropriate faucet using the attachment kit, and begin to slowly fill the matress with water. Place only a small amount of water into the mattress, then shut the water off, and smooth out any wrinkles in the bottom of the mattress. You will be able to feel them with your hand. Work from the center out. Make certain that the mattress and the probe are properly covered without wrinkles on them. Full contact is important for the heater to work properly.
When you are satisfied that the bottom is smooth, slowly turn the water on and bring the temperature up to warm. As it fills, you can increase the temperature. You likely will drain the hot water tank and the water will begin to feel cool.
TIP: turn the water off until the HW tank can recharge. If you wish to sleep comfortably, make sure the bed is filled with warm water. The heater will only raise the temperature about 1 degree per hour, so it will take several days to raise the temperature to a comfortable level unless you use warm water.
You will see the mattress filling with water, but also with air from inside the water lines. You can turn the water off and purge the air from the system from time to time.
Fill to the desired depth and firmness ( I like mine rather full and firmer). Remove the hose and cap the mattress. Purge the air, (And again in a few days until the air is relieved from the water). Plug the heater in and adjust the temperature dile. Make the bed, and get ready for a good night's sleep.
High and Dry Waterbeds. Waterbed Installation with Bed Tech
Tags: hard_side, king size waterbed liner, liners, queen size waterbed liner, queen waterbed liner, softside waterbed liners, soft_side, waterbed liner, waterbed_liner, water_bed