Ikat Fabric
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Ikat Fabric
Ethenic odishi handloom designs
ETHENIC ODISHI HANDLOOM DESIGNS
India is a country of diversities and its cultural richness is known worldwide for its ethnic quality. Ethnic, is classic and maintains the essence of our culture. Among the twenty nine states of India, Odisha has unique set of ethnic wear and has its unique charm and designs. The list of women wear is topped by Sarees, Salwar Kameej, Dupattas, Cholis, Kurtis, Stoles, Scarfs. The latest addition is men's wear with handloom Shirts, Lungies, Kameej, Kurtis, Sherwanees etc. These handlooms are available in different fabrics like cotton, silk, wild silk (Tussar, non-mulberry) and blended ones.
Odisha is a beautiful state spreading from temple towns of eastern coast to the deccan plateau. The women of Odisha dress in sarees and salwar kameej. The textile heritage of Odisha reflects the true artistic capabilities and superior craftsmanship of Odisha handlooms, which are made either at Nuapatna, near Cuttack on the coastal plain or in the weaving centers around Sambalpur, Bargarh and Sonepur.
The Cotton handlooms of Odisha have heavy drape and are woven with fine cotton threads tightly held together. The fabrics have a wooly soft touch which have woven thread designs as well as tie and dye motifs. The silk handlooms have a luster of precious stones.
Odisha cotton handloom and textiles come in early patterns of Ikat Style. Mostly four types of handloom textiles are produced that is Ikat, Bandha, Bomkai and Pashapalli. The "Ikat" handloom and textiles designing can be traced back to Odisha's maritime past to Indonesia and Bali. Ikat designs are structural with tie and dye method, where as borders do have heavy or light woven thread work and woven patterns. "Bandha" work is mainly tie and dye work at warn stage. Ikats are popular for its ethnic feel and tribal look. Odisha's "Bomkai" thread work features ornate borders and heavily embroidered drapes with touches of Ikat work. "Pashapalli" is a common design of Odisha handlooms resembling the chess board pattern in bright contrasting colours. This has also woven thread work borders.
The motifs are drawn from the Shakti Cult predominant in Odisha's tribal and rural culture for centuries. The borders with temple designs, Konark Wheel, fish and coanch give the fabric a genuine ethnic feel. The colours used for dyeing of fabrics are mostly natural vegetable dyes, instead of chemical dyes. Exquisite sarees painstakingly woven on earthy shades of cream, maroon, and brown, white reflect the rich cultural heritage of Odisha.
The Bandha or Tie and Dye of Odisha are different from that of Rajasthan and Gujrat. Here the yarn is first dyed in different colours according to designs. When woven, these design emerge and the special feature of the design is prominent on both the sides of the fabric. It is amazing to find that traditional weavers do not use any graphic design on paper. The common motifs are ethnic borrowed from nature. The fascinating names of the designs are "Vichitrapuri", "Chandrika", "Nabagunjar", "Ammantara", "Pashapalli", "Krisnapriya". Etc.
But recently, traditional handlooms have undergone vast changes as weavers try to adapt to popular taste. Course cotton has been replaced by fine cotton, silks and tussar. Gold threads and tissue are also used to enhance the patterns.
Tigiria – Nuapatna
About 7000 weavers are engaged in Odishi handlooms at Tigiria. Nuapatna bears more than 800 years of Ikat tradition. It is under the jurisdiction of Textile Division of Govt. of Odisha of Athagarh Zone. About 3500 looms were working continuously for many years in almost all the households of Nuapatna village. Now it has been reduced to 1000 looms. When we compare with the demand of these ethnic textiles, we do not find any change. It is a cherished fabric specially in the form of sarees and dress materials within the state, outside the state and internationally. But in sharp contrast we find close down of looms. These looms have provided sarees for the great personalities like our late Prime Minister Smt. Indira Gandhi, our Honorable President Smt. Prativa Patil and many dignitaries. The recent revolution of contemporary costumes has not been able to replace these woven wonders. This has set the backdrop of the workshop on textiles.
About the Author
TWINS 1A & 1B -Fiber Art Artist Designer-Weaver